About Hello all. I am a duty light designer. Page 2
|August 24th, 2009||#12|
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|August 26th, 2009||#13|
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Noeseikan, do you actually do the manufacturing of the flashlights or is that part of the operation outsourced?
You said two years ago you and your friends decided to design your own... really curious as to how you guys went about with the manufacturing and distribution.
|August 26th, 2009||#14|
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I've noticed quite a few new cars, trucks and busses are now fitted with LED rear lights..
I fitted a high level led brake light to the wifes VW combi years ago, it still works fine with no problems
Adversus solem ne loquitor
|August 26th, 2009||#15|
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Recently, we go well on the manufacturing, but still needs to learn a lot about distribution.
|August 26th, 2009||#17|
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Welcome aboard neoseikan....
Just to give you fair warning. I'm not a fan of the People's Republic of China.
But you appear to be different then the majority of the members from the PRC. So I guess I can let my guard down.
My experience with lights....
Replacement LED Cree Bulbs
I'm always looking for the best and brightest light on the market. Needs to be small, light in weight, bright (over 100 lumens), and be able to handle the recoil from a M2 Browning .50 Caliber Machine Gun.
Right now this is my current set up.
Surefire 618FGA Forend 6 Volt system with P60 Bulb on the Remington 870 Express Magnum Shotgun
Phoebus PK-05-2CR123 Three Watt LED Combat Flashlight on the FN P90 Submachine Gun
SureFire X200A 3 Watt LED Pistol Light on the GLOCK 22
Surefire L2 LumaMax LED 3 Watt LED Hand Held Light
Pentagon UL200 LED Weapons Light on the Colt M4 Carbine
Lights to me are tools that I use and abuse. My lights are used as impact weapons, files, lights, etc... If you can produce a tube with the proper knurling to be used as a tool file you've made me happy. So far the knurling on my Surefire L2 is holding up fine. Type III Anodizing is also important along with using aircraft grade aluminum. I'm talking about high end stuff...... I've paid over three to four hundred dollars for some of my weapon lights and They're worth every penny.... I have a box full of older lights that get replaced.
I need my lights to take abuse. I've used my L2 as a impact weapon and I will continue to do so. They must be able to take the abuse from dropped, banged into walls, trucks, hit, stepped on, etc... They must function.
Replacable tail switches are a must. Different length pressure tape switches are also a must. They must have a monetary one pressure switch and a consent on/off pressure button on the tape switch also.
The standard tail cap must be pressure activated. For consent on, it must be twist. The on/off selection through multiple presses of the button is a no go. I don't want to have to go through a menu of light settings to simply turn it on or off.
My line of work is the following. I'm currently a Internal Affair Detective for a American Police Department but I also work the road as a patrol officer when needed. I'm prior service with the US Army as a infantry soldier and I have seen combat and had my gear used and abused. I play hard with my toys.... I want them to last.
Last edited by 5.56X45mm; August 27th, 2009 at 02:14..
|August 27th, 2009||#19|
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And you are really a gun lights user! And I am quite interested in the scene you use machine gun with a light, I am not familiar with them.
What kind of batteries do you use most? CR123A or AA?
|August 27th, 2009||#20|
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CR123A is the battery of choice. Though the use of AA would be better since it's a far more common battery size. I can find AA is just about any corner of the modern world. TV Remote Controls, Cameras, etc.... CR123As are common but not that common. Only issue of course is that AA are 1 volt batteries while a CR123A is a 3 volt. More juice per unit, hence higher output weapon lights use them. They need to be small and compact but need a powerful energy source, CR123As do that.... only thing better is a Charged Capacitor.... but that's a completely different creature.
LED is the future.... Cree LED to be exact. Better construction and output. Only thing that beats it is HID (High Intensity Discharge) build. High end auto lamp bulb being used in weapon lights. Only negative is the lead buildup time. The bulb doesn't go to full output at the moment it's turned on. It needs to warm up which takes a few mili-seconds to seconds. But you are getting output levels around 6,000 Lumens. Works great for weapon mounted lights on crew served machine guns. Surefire just came out with two hand held HID Arc Bulb lights. Going price is about $350-$400 US.
The use of weapon mounted lights is to help identify the target and also help in navigation without the need to hold a hand held flashlight in your other hand. Trying to hold a light and a rifle is a pain in the arse. I also carry and use hand held lights because sometimes you don't need your weapon drawn but you do need a light source.
I'm to lazy to bring out the camera but I can gladly show you set up of what I use....
The following photos aren't of my personal firearms but my firearms are set up in a similar fashion. The GLOCK shown is mine.
My Colt M4 Carbine is in the same general configuration. Except it uses the Pentagon UL200 LED as the weapon light and the rail system is A.R.M.S. #50M-CV S.I.R..
Remington 870 with Surefire Forend Light Assembly.
My GLOCK 17 with 33rd magazine and Surefire X200.
Last edited by 5.56X45mm; August 27th, 2009 at 02:43..
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